Klaipeda, Lithuania was on my agenda today. My Grandparents were born in Lithuania. My family today, continues to enjoy the special foods and customs handed down from my Grandparents. The port is very special to me, I can feel my roots in the air. My pride swells as the ship docks at this little town. I am drawn to breathing the same air as my Grandparents once did and wonder what life would have been like for them if they stayed. Would they have survived?
I decided to take a tour called Village Life in Lithuania, hoping to get past the outskirts of town to see, feel and breathe Lithuanian air. I am home.
Since we did not dock until noon, Regent had a special breakfast for those who were doing back to back cruises and who were at the Gold level and above. We happened to fit that bill. About 30 people filed into one of the speciality restaurants, Signatures. We were given a choice of beverages. Of course I had the Mimosa. The had fresh fruit, lobster omelets, Chicken Kiev, pastries, and caviar. I was impressed that the Polish chef on board made perogies just for us. :) A nice welcome to Lithuania. How thoughtful was that? It wasn't as good as Grandmas, potato filling only, and needed more butter on top as well as some bits of bacon ..... BUT it was the thoughtfulness that counted. I made a special effort to tell the chef it was much appreciated. A group of us then talked growing up with Perogies.
The sound of Lithuanian music could be heard on the dock as we began to disembark, Welcome Home the music said :). The accordion reminded me of my other Grandmother.
Our first stop was the small town of Klaipeda. We heard a bit of its history. I can't remember how many countries invaded this little town over the years. Hitler was here, gave a speech. There is a statue of a little girl in the plaza. He had it removed because as he spoke on the balcony of this yellow building the statue of the little girl had her back to him. He was offended. After the war, a replica of the statue was placed in the square in the exact original position. The original statue was never found. Russia bombed the town, there were only 3 survivors.
In the square people were sitting under umbrellas selling their crafts and amber. I found a lovely lady with a linen loom. The loom was 80 some years old. She has been making fabric for 25 years, learned from her Grandmother. I bought a lovely tote. I also bought amber earrings. I just wanted to support these lovely people.
A monument to the unification of Lithuania in Klaipėda. The Klaipėda Region (brown pole) was unified with the rest of Lithuania (grey pole) in 1923. The broken off concrete symbolizes that most of Lithuania Minor remains separated. Translated means “We are one nation, one land, one Lithuania“ Hearing the history of this country from the Granddaughter of survivors, (our tour guide) just brings tears to your eyes.
We then drove out to the country to see the land, some villages and farms. We came to a quaint town to visit a tiny museum dedicated to remembering the Lithuanian resistance during Soviet times. As the bus came to a stop, I was the first one off. These gentle lovely ladies were waiting for us on the front lawn of the museum. They slowly got up out of their chairs and formed a semi circle. They were in their eighties, maybe? Some younger and some older? Their faces were etched with a long history of events that I know none of us could ever come to really know or understand. They straightened themselves out, stood tall and began to sing ever so sweetly and softly in beautiful harmony, in Lithuanian. Beautiful. Touching. The moment just stood still as their strong yet soft voices pierced the air. I did not understand the words but felt the meaning. When they finished they nodded. There was a great sense of pride among them. All were sent to Siberia. I was told they may have been around 6 or so at the time. Two of the ladies told us they were exiled for 15 years. All survived. Most lost their families. They all returned home village. They are the survivors. Their songs are about their experiences, about their return, about rebuilding their lives and about how they treasure family, home and country. Lessons learned and to be passed forward. With every song, I cried. The songs were somewhat translated afterwards. At the end I asked my guide to say Thank You. That my grandparents came from here. It is my honor to visit, come home to where my family began. I thanked them for Keeping the History alive and I cried some more. They all bustled asking the guide what I was saying then they shook their heads and smiled at me. I just put my hand to my heart and said Thank You. It was the most moving experience I have felt in a very long time.
Again we were told about deportations. About how families were separated. About the cruelty. How everything was taken away and people were forced to live in horrid conditions collectively. This photo shows some things people may have taken with them when forced to leave their homes. No food, no clothing, no tools.....
Deportation sites. Families separated/men and women separated.
A modest protest cost this young girl 10 more years in Siberia. She Xd her passport in protest as her way to say I am NOT leaving of my own free will.
More heart felt songs ....
Farm land and villages from the bus.
Mom's idea must have come from here. This made me smile. A big playpen for the little ones in the front yard.
What we learned from the tour guide is that people of Lithuania fear a war, fear another take over and feel it is coming, soon. Many are readying for it. They say they are ready and will fight. My heart goes out to the people living here.
We ended the day with dinner at Prime and a beautiful sunset over the glass sea.
David, happy to be back onboard, dressed in his finest for the 4th of July.
